Hi guys,

Will start a thread over my new engine build. Maybe some of you guys have seen my thread in 30forty50.com forums, but it seems to be very quiet nowadays. Anyway, those who are interested from the history, can have a look over there. Been quite unlucky with the engine, toasted connecting rod bearings, turbos etc..  but that´s part of this business.

The aim is to build a new engine that´s able to put down 1000 horses and be reliable for more than just a couple of one mile runs at WOT. Past engine was cabaple of doing that, but there was for some unknown reason a huge piston blow by which caused quite a lot of oil spitting out of the engine and when boosting over 2 bar.  Also had some headache with copper head gasket since o-ring solution on top of Darton´s was not succesfull since the o-ring protruded too much over the sleeves. Engine was also far away from the power output it should have produced.

New engine will see new Darton Sleeves and new o-ring design and with new breathing set up with vacuum pump. Not much new compared to the old set up.

Some of the mods (current and future mods):

- JE-pistons with Techline coating

- Static compression ratio 10.2

- Garret GTX4202R turbo

- Darton Sleeves with 84mm bore

- R&R aluminium rods, 149,5 mm lengt

- CatCams billet cams, 245 intake, 236 exhaus degrees (measured with 1.0 mm + clearance)

- Vi-Pec i88 engine management

- E85 fuel, possibly methanol occasionally on coming season

- GZ-Motorsport vacuum pump to take care of crankcase breathing

- Volvo D5 sputter cam bearings

- Cam bearing oiling will be changed to 270 degrees instead of stock 180 degreees.  

- Double fuel rail with 1200cc and 2300cc injectors.

- Autronic 500CDI, IGN1A CDI coils

I began to tear down the engine last autumn and it looked like this back then:

Some pics from engine bay:

Random parts:

Will post some pics later on from the build up.

Well I been thinking i been wanting to go old school for a long time. Than I seen this 740 and just had to get it. For $300 it runs and only has 120k miles on it. Its a little fun car to drive. Seen it and just had to save it from somebody getting it and making it into a derby car.

Just checking in.  I just purchased a 2008 Volvo S80 3.2 with only 37,500 miles.

Okay my odometer quit working so while I had the dash guages out I added white overlay to them..I like how it looks during the day. At night its not as bright as I'd like because I used blue painted bulbs instead of LED's. http://

http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-philadelphia-auto/

If anyone wants tickets let me know. Have access to a couple free ones I can send to someone. 

hi can anyone tell me who owns this vehicle

Hello everyone!

My name is Filip / Philip, and I'am new here!

My english is not the best, but I will try!

I'am from Sweden, live in Gothenburg and work at Volvo Cars in Torslanda (The home of Volvo) 

Recently buyed a Volvo S60 D5 Summum Passion red, - 2006. 

Fully equipped execpt a sunroof. 

I managed to buy the car from the Volvo factory,  with many ifs and buts..

This S60 was former a Showcar for Volvo when it was brand new year 2006.

the car has been in exhibitions, events and many more, so it's in Mint condition! 

Questions about me or my work at Volvo?

Feel free to ask! 

Hey, I am new from North East Ohio.  I found an 06 S60 2.5T AWD.  It is $7,000 and has 125k on it.  It is in fantastic condition.  It has a very detailed CarFax that includes the timing belt change at 100,000 at a Volvo dealership.  I am still keeping my eyes open though.  I am NEW to Volvo... This is the first one I have ever driven.  The seats are the most comfortable thing I have ever sat in.  Nicer then my BMW was by far!  Any tips or info would be great.  My wife is going to drive it mostly.  However I may tinker with it some.  Saw some youtube videos of 2.5T's with exhaust work done and the sound was AMAZING!
I really don't leave things alone...  I have some crazy vehicles, including a 4x4 Geo Metro and a LSx swapped Kia Sorento (yes im serious).

Thanks...

AngrySnail

Hi all,

I'm finally getting around to detailing the adventures and shenanigans that Ben and I had in November building the motor and replacing the gearbox in my '98 V70 AWD.

My goals for this build were modest in terms of power. I aimed to have a motor capable of handling significantly more power than the Kinugawa 20T we were installing would be able to make, but I also wanted to stick with using the car's original motor as a starting point rather than start with one of the newer RN blocks. This goes well with my decision years ago to use an original M58 rather than the more modern (and superior) M66 gearboxes.

New Performance Goodies to install:

-ASC 139.5mm Forged Rods
-Mahle OS2 Pistons (OS2 not because the engine needed that but because it was all that was available)

-20T turbo w/ angled 7cm exhaust housing

-440cc "green" injectors freshly cleaned by Cruzin Performance

-do88 Intercooler

-NA intake manifold and throttle body

-Tuning by Beüst

A little background:

The car has been in my family since it was new. My parents bought it in 1997. I took it to college in 2003 and have owned it since somewhere around then. Technically not a 1 owner car but pretty close. During college, I had some contacts in Sweden and imported a used M58 and some manual axles from Sweden in the hope of eventually swapping the auto gearbox out. In those days, everyone I talked to in the U.S. said it couldn't be done (the Swedes were of course more confident).

In 2008, just before leaving for grad school in Sweden, Hussein and Ben made a monumental effort to help me with what we believe was the first M58 swap in the U.S. (a handful of people had done the M66 swap around that time) and I am always grateful that we accomplished that project. We wrote an article for Rolling magazine detailing the manual swaps of our three cars shortly afterwards; an M66 swap, an M58 swap and an M56 swap.

Here are a few of pictures from 2008:

At that time, the car was on the stock B5254T motor with an M58, a fresh 15G, white injectors, TME catback exhaust, and stock T5-M tune. I dyno'd the car at something like 218 whp and 240 wtq on a Dynojet.

A few months later, we installed a 99+ style TME downpipe to get rid of the horrible bend the 98s have, an R exhaust manifold and a custom Wothrline tune which really woke the car up and gave a lot of confidence that it was well made and well thought out. I drove about 35K miles with the car with this setup this over the last 6 or 7 years, including X-country 3 times on some epic trips during vacations from school/work whenever I was back in the States.

The only problem was that the M58 had a really broken reverse gear and although the forward gears felt perfect, the gearbox was starting to get metal shavings in the oil...toward the end, I was changing the gear oil nearly every oil change to keep it alive.

So began the search for another M58. I also wanted to do a proper motor build and have collected the parts over the past 7 years to do things right and to be able to do some other convenient maintenance to the front end. This also helped tremendously to space out the cost.

Gearbox heaven in Sweden:

The (hopefully) properly functioning M58:

So this past November, the build began. B Mac flew out to my parents' place in Arizona where my car lives with a bag of tools and after a couple of trips to Harbor Freight and Home Depot to acquire things like an engine stand, an engine crane, and a 3/8 cordless Milwaukee Fuel impact wrench - which by the way is magic - we got to work. We did use the local Volvo dealership to get the motor and gearbox out as one unit and back in again upon completion, as we decided that we didn't want to risk running into unforeseen issues and getting stuck in my parents' garage with a limited amount of tools. Huge thanks goes out to Mike at Volvo of Tucson for his interest in the project and the care he took in getting the motor out and re-installed.

(All photography is credited to Ben)

While the car was at Volvo dropping the subframe, we had some time to make sure the new M58 was in good order internally and to have it jet-washed at the machine shop and then install all new seals.

Here is a picture of one of the forks with a part number in case that helps anyone in the future:

These gear-packs are sharp!

Once we had the motor back in the garage, we started taking it apart:

'VS women of questionable morals.'

The motor looked really good for nearly 190K miles!

Disassembled and ready for the machine shop:

At this stage, the timing was entirely up to the machine shop and I'll let Ben chime in on how that was. So Ben and I had about a week of downtime. What to do?

We took apart my old M58 that was puking metal. I had installed custom made Dimple magnetic drain plugs a few years ago in testing for ViVA Performance to start carrying them and had them as both the drain and fill plugs of the gearbox. These are super strong magnets and I can't recommend them enough. I also have them as the fill plugs on the angle gear and rear diff, and as the drain plug for the engine oil pan. Take a look at what they were holding on to in this M58:

Ben's expression says it all:

The stock, internal magnet:

We also did some work to the angle gear by adding the updated vent to help relieve excess pressure, drilling a drain as per the Volvo procedure, and installing new seals (except for the pinion seal and the big o-ring which requires removal of the crown nut as there's a lot of risk involved in replacing those so don't do it unless they're obviously leaking).

Painted a freshly milled and bead blasted R manifold and the new turbo exhaust housing and coolant pipe with some 1800 degree ceramic paint from Eastwood to try and keep the temps down in the engine bay and we did some polishing of the turbo lines:

A few other parts went out to the powder-coater including a nice NA intake manifold that we found at a JY, the thermostat housing, a couple of brackets and the cam cover:

I also painted some motor mount brackets and we literally cleaned up every rusty nut and bolt using some Evapo-Rust which works very well.

Some nice Snabb hoses for the idle air controller and the NA throttle body:

We also had a little fun around Tucson:

Our view most evenings:

Sadly I don't have a picture of the Prickly Pear Margaritas or Sonoran Dogs that are a specialty of Tucson but I'm hoping that Ben can add some.

The machine shop cleaned everything, did the head and installed new valve stem seals, rebuilt the oil pump, re-surfaced and balanced the flywheel along with the new R clutch, polished and balanced the crank, polished the cams, and bored and honed the cylinders to accommodate the new Mahle OS2 pistons. We had supplied the machine shop with a deck plate from CJ Yother (big thanks CJ!) so that they could do this properly. We also supplied them with a new spare set of head bolts and a new spare headgasket to use with the deck plate.

Additionally, we asked the machine shop to shim the block in between each of the cylinders. This is something that a few people on here have done with success and indeed it was also a recommended step from an article series in Bilsport Magazine from Sweden written by one of the gurus on his formula for building bullet-proof whiteblock motors. Obviously we were starting with a less-than-ideal '98 B5254T rather than one of the more modern engines. The Swedish article recommends the motor from a mid 2000s S60 T5 as the ideal starting point.

Ben and I decided that we would assemble everything for the experience of doing it but we asked the shop to check the tolerances of the ASC rods and the main bearings to be on the safe side. It turned out that the main bearings supplied from Toga were undersized even though they were supposed to be the correct standard ones for my engine. I believe that Toga had recently changed suppliers because the bearings supplied turned out to be King bearings and are probably not the same ones that some others here have used with success. The rod bearings supplied from Toga were shipped all in the same bag and ended up damaging each other so we opted to use the Volvo rod bearings in the end which looked to be much higher quality and come properly boxed in pairs.

I was able to return all of the Toga bearings to Import Performance Parts to their credit.

The bearing fiasco made for a tense moment as we were on a tight schedule (Ben needing to get back to the East Coast and I needing to go back to Germany) and our fingers were crossed that we could source the main bearings for my motor from Volvo since so many of these parts are no longer available in the U.S. (most pistons for example). Thankfully, after much confusion interpreting Volvo's matrix, we managed to order the correct Volvo bearings and they arrived quickly. I learned my lesson. In the future I would just recommend using the Volvo bearings in the first place as the quality on them looks phenomenal.

Everything back from the machine shop and after some additional washing with some Dawn soap and a toilet brush, reassembly began:

The internals:

Painting with some ceramic engine paint from Eastwood (I sadly didn't mix it well enough while painting the oil pan so that turned poorly compared to the rest of the motor)

It was a long night of work for the two of us. We intended to have it back to Volvo by morning so we worked from Thursday morning through the night until Friday morning with only a stop for a very large pizza to keep us going before finishing re-assembly and bringing it all back to Volvo.

Sunrise on Friday:

Almost ready to be lifted into the U-Haul - just need to install the gearbox and angle gear:

I used the opportunity to install a few other things: The car got a rebuilt AWD steering rack from A1-Cardone, some new Moog tie rods, a set of Kahplenke Delrin subframe bushings which are a work of art, and a new Meyle hydraulic mount as mine was the original with 189K on it!

While they had the car on their lift for a couple of weeks, Mike at Volvo installed some new hardware and a set of TME lowering springs on the front Ohlins struts so that the stance would match the Ohlins lowering springs in the rear. For me, the stance is absolutely perfect now. He also put in the do88 intercooler which is an impressive piece of work.

Ben and I also installed all new silicone radiator and auxiliary coolant and vacuum hoses (already had silicone hoses for the intercooler), new heater hoses, and of course belts. For tuning purposes we also installed an AEM wideband.

Once the car was back together, we put in some Joe Gibbs 5w30 break-in oil, started it up on the lift and let it come to temperature, changed the oil filter and then began a break-in of the engine. There was a moment where everyone held their breath but it started smoothly. Everyone seems to have an opinion on breaking in an engine, from 'baby it for 1000 miles' to 'drive it like you stole it.' After discussing it with the machine shop, we settled on that the first 50 miles were especially important and so we drove around Tucson without letting the engine sit in one rpm band for very long, doing some smooth pulls up hills and then letting the car pull vacuum for stretches coming back downhill. 

After the first 50 miles, I drove it another 400 or so trying to keep the engine speed varied and progressively ramping up the amount of boost and then changed the break-in oil and filter and re-filled with a name brand conventional oil. I plan to drive with this another 1000 miles and then probably will change to synthetic oil and follow more normal change intervals.

Aaron of Beüst Tuning provided an excellent base tune and I look forward to taking some more data-logs and working with him on dialing in the tuning the next time I am around in the Spring. Unfortunately, we just ran out of time in November.

A special thanks goes out to Nick with Re-Volv (www.re-volv.com) who was instrumental in getting us many of the Volvo parts we needed in an incredibly efficient way, especially with some of the last minute parts even though we were on the other side of the country. As far as I'm concerned, there's no one better to work with for any Volvo parts needs so definitely reach out to him if you're planning a project: Nick@re-volvparts.com

This project actually went incredibly smoothly given the scope of it and our limited timeframe. All the planning helped but there are always timing issues that are out of your control and always a few unforeseen challenges such as the bearings being the undersized or discovering a part here and there that needs to be replaced. One small frustration was a cracked thermostat housing (part number 1397909) which was leaking coolant through a hairline crack that we didn't notice until the car was back together and had been started on the lift. It was all hands on deck to figure out where the leak was coming from.

The only other issue is the car has a very high idle (~1900 rpm) upon a cold start and also sometimes just randomly when stopped at a light. I suspect that my IAC which is the original is in need of replacement since we cleaned the NA throttle body that we installed quite well before putting it all back together and all vacuum hoses and elbows are new.

These projects are always great learning experience and I certainly learned a ton working with Ben on this. It was the culmination of years of parts collecting and discussing and gathering information from those on here who have done similar and more extreme builds in the past. But most of all, it was a great way to spend a couple of weeks with a really good friend that I don't get to see very often given where I live.

As the wagon sits:

Here is a (hopefully) complete list of parts used for this build. I have struck out certain parts that either were not relevant for my car but would be relevant to others (as in the case of the suspension parts because I have the Ohlins suspension) or parts that we chose not to use.

Front Suspension Rebuild:

-1397492 x2 subframe bracket

-Kaplhenke Delrin Subframe Bushings

-6801722 Meyle Hydraulic Mount

-1387860 Meyle HD endlnks

-TME front lowering springs

-30683637 XC90 Spring Seat x2

-31200599 OE Strut Mounts x2
-9157705 x2 Spring Mounting Spacer
-30647969 x2 Strut Mount Cap

-31201386 x2 strut washer

-9140067 x2 bump stop

Steering

-A1 Cardone Rebuilt Rack 262506 w/ inner tie rods

-L/R outer tie rods: Moog

-969093 o ring steering pressure hose

-969092 x2 o rings steering pressure hose and reservoir

-1387453 x4 o-rings for hard lines

Intercooler

-do88 Aluminum Intercooler

Turbo Upgrade

-20T Kinugawa – billet wheel, 11 blade turbine, 7cm² exhaust housing

-8642450 turbo to manifold gasket

-11994 x6 copper crush washers (get a few extras)

-31251439 oil return line sealing ring

-31251456 oil return line gasket

-18671 x2 turbo oil line gaskets block side
-6842190 turbo coolant line– do88 Silicone Kit

-30713305 turbo coolant return hose – do88 Silicone Kit

-30640776 x2 return hose clamps - do88 SS clamp kit

-30637921 spare R manifold, cleaned, milled

-30713254 unique heat shield for R manifold (not strictly needed)

-TCV Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit from IPD

-Some extra 4 or 5mm vacuum hose

-Some extra vacuum elbows in assorted sizes

Motor Overhaul

-Bosch “Green” Injectors – cleaned & re-sealed by Cruzin Performance

-30750783 Genuine Volvo oil pan gasket set 

(includes: 1-8642559 oil pan seal, 1-8642560 Oil Pan Seal, 1-1397983 Oil Pan Seal, 1-30637867 Dipstick Tube O-Ring, 2-3514546 Dipstick Tube O-Rings and 4-30637866 Oil Line O-Ring)

-271815 Oil squirter gaskets

-274260 Oil Pump Gasket Set

-9146132 Valve spring for oil pump

-1271903 piston for above spring (discontinued)

-3531017 Victor Reinz Head Gasket

-6842347 x12 Cylinder Head Bolts – Victor Reinz (made by Mahle)

-31368044 x12 Main Bolts (Volvo)
-1161059 anaerobic sealant
-6842272 x2 front cam seal (Beck/Arnley)

-9443310 x2 rear cam seal (SKF 11809)
-1397525 x5 valve cover sealing rings (Victor Reinz)

-3517893 x20 valve stem seals (Victor Reinz 70-26058-00)

-9458178 rear main seal

-PCV System Kit Genuine Volvo
-NA intake manifold w/out EGR (part number unknown)
-9146266 Intake manifold gasket
-1271893 NA throttle body
-9135990 throttle body gasket
-Snabb NA throttle body silicone hose

-978111 Vacuum tree o-ring

-9146225 Upper idle air hose – Snabb Silicone

-1366791 rectangular sealing ring for oil pan thermostat

-968757 x2 o-rings oil pan thermostat housing

-9463274 Thermostat housing gasket on block

-9141095 Coolant expansion tank

-6842894 Expansion tank hose silicone (do88)
-9135267 Expansion tank hose silicone (do88)

-9186847 Heater hose outlet
-9186849 Heater hose inlet

-ASC 139,5mm Forged Rods

-30777466 x5 sets Genuine Volvo rod bearings

-9454743 x10 Flywheel to crankshaft bolts

-959219 x6 pressure plate to flywheel bolts

-272218 R Clutch Kit

-Mahle OS2 Pistons (includes wrist pins, snap rings, piston rings)

-Volvo Main Bearings (ordered by code)

-Genuine Volvo Spark Plug kit

-Distributor Rotor Bosch

-Distributor Cap Bosch

-TB252RB Gates Timing Belt

-6PK1743 Continental Serpentine Belt

-985375 x4 crankshaft pulley bolts

-30677767 water pump gasket (re-used bolts)

-11996 washer (buy a few of these for spares)
-1275379 oil cap gasket

Gearbox

-M58 Gearbox

-9143962 ball seat for shift fork

-9181780 Release Bearing

-914463 Snap Ring for Slave Cylinder

-6843481 L.S. (manual axle seal)
-9143911 R.S.

Either

-1381798 41mm input shaft seal

or
-8675580 44.5mm input shaft seal

-9143885 Gearbox diff seal O.DIA 38 mm, 28x38x7

-976041 o-ring behind AWD collar

Angle Gear

-Installed vent 8689527 & 30681138
-Installed drain as per Volvo TNN

-9143885 x2 L.S. & R.S. Drive shaft seal O.DIA 38 mm, 28x38x7

-976041 o-ring inside collar

-30735126 (9143879) x2 L.S. & R.S. sealing ring 65mm outer diameter

-977023 o-ring under crown nut (garage)

-9183891 pinion seal (garage but never replace) 39,4x65x10 mm

Fluids

-1161645 x3 gearbox oil

-1161648 x1 angle gear oil

 

*I hope that Ben will add some things that I've no doubt forgotten. He also has some more pictures of the finished car with the engine in it that maybe we can merge into this thread.

That's supposed to be LA, as in Los Angeles.

Just leased my first Volvo two days ago and I love it so far. Got myself a 2015.5 S60 T5 with premium package, sport package, sport seats and BLIS. Metallic silver exterior, off-black interior. I've leased Hondas, VWs and an Acura, and this is by far my favorite so far. Fingers crossed there are no issues with it for the next 39 months. Here are a few pics.

Hello everyone,

I am interested in your opinion about the sound I got out of 3 inch cat-back system.

There are no mufflers - it's straight 3 inch tube with extra helmholtz resonators attached to the sides of the pipe (my own design).

Inside the cabin there is no drone while driving on a highway. You hear only the high tone sounds and when you accelerate hard you hear the exhaust but also the engine which is really nice.

The microphones I used are not great but you can hear the nice tones ...

http://youtu.be/ZIbVclt3Iy8

http://youtu.be/UVrm2xcXEnk

http://youtu.be/kzcsYpY-rh8

Thanks,

Matt

Thought I'd show this off now that I finally got around to switching my engine block for the one I've been rebuilding for the past years

The footage is taken over the course of the last month or two mostly, including video footage of the first start at the end.

Block modifications:

- H-beam rods

- Bore and hone to 81.5mm

- Wiseco 81.5mm forged pistons

- Japanifold

- Garrett GT3071R

- Quaife LSD

Soon (after break in) I will install the new injectors, enlarge the MAF housing and aim for a tune in the range of 400 HP

Here's my buddy Max, who I sold my S70 to today with 313 k miles and still going strong. I haven't posted on here in a while, but I figure this is worth a post. I won't be gone from the Volvo world forever, but I'm now Volvoless for the first time in a few years. The S70 was my first car that got me into modding and learning all about cars. It'll always be remembered as a special car for me. On the plus side, Max will let me drive it once in a while!   The car is in good hands with him.

I happen to be a BMW nut as well, and my new car as of this past July is a 2006 330xi 6MT with 175 k miles (my 2nd Bimmer). She's jet black with black leather and in awesome shape. I put on an Active Autowerke tune on in August and have been loving it since.

I'll still visit VS once in a while to check out all your sexy rides 

A few picture to honor the S70:

And the new car:

Cheers and happy Volvoing!

Sorry guys but I have yet to actually have a Volvo.  I was actually about to buy a t5m s70 today but the owner told me he sold it as I was on my way to go get it.  Im really disappointed about missing out on that car. But now I'm searching around again and am wondering what you guys think of the awd s70?  unfortunately its an auto and I'm subborn and refuse to drive an automatic.  I guess im wondering if anyone knows if it is even possible to swap the Look at me, I think I am witty trans out for a manual?  I feel like the transfercase is part of the transmission, ruling that out.  Or would it be easier to get a manual volvo and give it a turbo?  now that ive seen what the turbo adds to these volvo's im hesitant to want an N/A one.

Some of you who have been around a little longer might remember my story.

Had a 1998 S70 T5M from 2007-2013. Nothing too crazy...18T, OBX turboback, RICA tune, FMIC, R bumper, Comets, etc, etc. Was at around 280whp (trapped 105.3mph in the 1/4). But she was my baby.

When I got her (2007):

When I sold her (2013):

After I sold the T5M, it just so happened that I picked this one up: 2003 V70 T5. How she currently sits:

However, half way through my ownership of the T5M (probably around 2010-2011,) there was a car that I was looking forward to having one day.

Well, just a couple of days ago, that day had arrived.

2007 BMW 335i

Obviously, I've seen pictures of the car before I went to see it. But, not gonna lie, when I saw it in person for the first time my jaw almost dropped to the ground. It was due to a combination of things: how clean the car was, the wheels, the paint color, the lighting, the setting inside the owner's garage.

I took it easy on the modding on the 2003 V70 T5, however I don't plan to do the same with the E90.
I'm sure most of you are familiar with these cars. Stock, they put down 270-280 whp. And it doesn't take much to make them pretty quick.

My plans:

Short term: Walnut blasting, JB4 tune, BMS Dual Cone Intake (350-360 whp)
Mid term: Downpipes, FMIC, Meth Injection (410-420 whp)
Long term: RB turbos, Exhaust, LSD (500++ whp)

Just a feeler to see if there is interest. Run with killer cupcake industries. Giveaways and chance to win money at end. Entry is $100 for driver and 1 passenger. More passengers is $50 bucks each. Depending on amount of entrants will determine prize at end. Please help us make this happen. there may be a show at the end of the run.