$100 Buy-in to pool. 3 Stops on the route. Car with best poker hand wins Half the pool. There will also be raffles and a car show at the end. More info on our website killercupcakeindustries.com It's official and is happening now
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Liberty State Park-Montauk Poker Run
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C.j. Sauter's Volvo-Coaster
November of 2013. I'm 15 years old, with a freshly printed drivers permit, and the faintest facial hair you ever saw.
Mom and Dad bring this home:
![q9UlHjpl.jpg]()
A 1998 Volvo V70XC, in Nautic Blue. Fast forward thru Dad and I installing a new heater core, and me fitting these wheels off my Moms dead T5.
I go thru all of 2014 in my blue wagon, with nothing more than a new heater core, and the wheels. Until about a year later, the back end comes loose from the road on a wet and slippery night, and I land in a ditch turned 180 degrees... I trash my favorite T5 wheels, push every fender and panel out of alignment, and crunch the drivers side front fender... and a tear in each bumper.
I was truly devastated. it got sent out to insurance and we bought it back for $400.
![Mq9jRXAl.jpg]()
You can see everything is misaligned...
![Es4rrgYl.jpg]()
Big thanks to Gorilla tape for holding my blinker in for over 3 months now.
It's now worth no more than $700, and I decided to hold onto it.
Until this popped up on the Seattle Craigslist...
![IxypgNgl.jpg]()
I put up $400, and dad put up $1600 and we trailered it home. A 2000 Auto-tragic V70R.
It immediately went into the barn and onto the lift. Then I stole the wheels and tires after I got my car back and put them on my car, and I think it looks good
![NROLYc9l.jpg]()
Dad and I worked out that I could make payments for a number of years to him to pay off the cost of the V70R and the M66 that he found...
but I didn't like it, so I left the deal and got the keep my $700 V70XC, and he gave me the blown T5!!!!!!!!!
![64KnpE0l.jpg]()
But the catch was I had to fix it on my own... So against my dads advice, I did it in the cold and slightly wet of our barns lean to.. worst decision of my entire life
![lcrfGczl.jpg]()
stripped the top end down
![6dCeaqVl.jpg]()
![piL0rc7l.jpg]()
Ended up breaking a head bolt off, but none the less I got the flippen thing off
![gZLuzKYl.jpg]()
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand now it sits...
Waiting till dads V70R is out of the barn. that's all for now, more to come by next week.
Mom and Dad bring this home:
A 1998 Volvo V70XC, in Nautic Blue. Fast forward thru Dad and I installing a new heater core, and me fitting these wheels off my Moms dead T5.
I go thru all of 2014 in my blue wagon, with nothing more than a new heater core, and the wheels. Until about a year later, the back end comes loose from the road on a wet and slippery night, and I land in a ditch turned 180 degrees... I trash my favorite T5 wheels, push every fender and panel out of alignment, and crunch the drivers side front fender... and a tear in each bumper.
I was truly devastated. it got sent out to insurance and we bought it back for $400.
You can see everything is misaligned...
Big thanks to Gorilla tape for holding my blinker in for over 3 months now.
It's now worth no more than $700, and I decided to hold onto it.
Until this popped up on the Seattle Craigslist...
I put up $400, and dad put up $1600 and we trailered it home. A 2000 Auto-tragic V70R.
It immediately went into the barn and onto the lift. Then I stole the wheels and tires after I got my car back and put them on my car, and I think it looks good
Dad and I worked out that I could make payments for a number of years to him to pay off the cost of the V70R and the M66 that he found...
but I didn't like it, so I left the deal and got the keep my $700 V70XC, and he gave me the blown T5!!!!!!!!!
But the catch was I had to fix it on my own... So against my dads advice, I did it in the cold and slightly wet of our barns lean to.. worst decision of my entire life
stripped the top end down
Ended up breaking a head bolt off, but none the less I got the flippen thing off
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand now it sits...
Waiting till dads V70R is out of the barn. that's all for now, more to come by next week.
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Finally! Got A C30
I finally picked up a C30. Lost my job of 25 years the year they came out. I fell in love with the looks but they might as well been made of gold. After going back to school I am now a Lab Analyst at a local aluminum plant and can afford one. I searched for months for one and finally found one in Durham, NC. I drove 360 miles one way hoping I wasn't going on a wild goose chase. I struck gold. Great shape and on the way home found the original owners book they had made of all service and work since day one! What a find and when i called the people they were great and were very kind and told me of the great deal of care they gave the car. I'm on cloud nine. Here is a picture. Looking forward to learning a lot more and enjoying my car.
Thanks for your time,
Pappy
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Beusted Silver - The Build Thread
2 months ago I was made aware of a very clean Silver '98 V70R that had been totaled due to a bent rim and subframe. The owner wanted to sell the car for the buy back price from the insurance company, as long as the car would go to a loving owner. I checked out the car out and knew I had to have it. $850 later and it was mine!
I’ve had my white 850 for 8 years. I’ve learned the majority of what I know today directly and indirectly due to that car. In the process of learning I made a lot of questionable and irreversible modifications. I want this V70R to be modified with attention to detail and quality. My aim for this car is a reliable, high horsepower car that retains all of its comforts, and feels confident at speed/handling/braking. The end goal is to swap the engine from the 850 into the V70R with a target of 500AWHP. I haven’t decided on the final turbo setup, but I will be upgrading from the 20G.
First thing up was the fuel system. I never want to worry about fuel delivery problems but the stock AWD fuel system is very hindered from the factory. Directly proceeding the stock fuel pump is a nozzle orifice with a 4mm outlet!
After this orifice the fuel has to make 2 90º bends in under an inch at which point the line size is 8mm ID to the fuel rail.
I decided to replace the in tank fuel line with a 10mm ID hard steel line with smooth bends. Then 6AN stainless steel line from the sender to an Aeromotive FPR.
To facilitate the fuel modifications I decided to remove the entire rear subframe.
I wanted to take the time to inspect all of the bushings and replace any rotted fuel lines. Luckily, being a Colorado car its entire life there was no rust and all the bushings and fuel lines looked to be in excellent condition.
I brass brazed a 6AN fitting to the end of the 10mm steel line.
Then brazed the entire assembly to the new sender top.
I know it isn’t pretty, but this is the first time I’ve ever brazed; the fittings are solid and leak free.
The stock plastic fuel pump housing is held in alignment with a spring, this spring is retained with a slip washer and I wasn’t confident that this slip washer would remain put and removal and installation, so I decided to thread the end of the fuel return and use a nut.
Interstingly, I had two senders and they had different diameter fuel returns. The one on the left is from my V70R the one on the right is from a 2000 XC. I elected to use the larger diameter return.
I used an Aeromotive stealth pump and fabricated and extension piece to center the pump inlet in the housing.
All finished.
Coming directly off the sender I have a right angle 6AN fitting. The fitting is very tight, but clears the body with enough room to allow for movement of the fuel tank.
Luckily the 6AN fits in the stock undercarriage fuel line carrier.
I used a Holley 100GPH billet fuel filter which fits neatly under the car.
Purely for cosmetics, I converted the stock return line to braided line right at the transition to the engine bay.
For the time being I’m using a 5AN to 6AN straight adapter for the fuel rail. This is a temporary solution until I weld a 6AN bung to the fuel rail.
Next up was the suspension. I know that there is a very limited amount of options for the rear of a P80 AWD and I wasn’t very excited at the prospect of paying upwards of $1,300 for half of my suspension setup so I decided to cobble together my own.
I started with Kaplhenke’s rear coilover spring and bumpstop retainer setup. I went with 350# 8” springs.
For the shocks I used QA1 adjustable shocks originally intended for the front of a C5/C6 Corvette. The Corvette front corner weight is approximately 875 lbs, which should be around the same weight as the rear of a P80 AWD. The compressed and extended height also happens to be almost identical at 16.19”/11.2”.
The lower mounting point is a ‘T-bar’ mount, and although the Corvette mounting bolts are much too close together to bolt up to a P80, QA1 makes a 5” T-bar mount which can modified to bolt up directly, the mounting ears must be widened by 1/8".
The shocks have a single knob for adjustment, but the knob adjusts both rebound and compression simultaneously. For those who want more adjustability they also offer a double adjustable variant. With the car on a lift adjustment is extremely easy. I haven’t tried adjusting with the car on the ground, but I don’t think it would be very hard at all.
The Kaplhenke perch and spring setup was $345 and the shocks were $319, so the whole setup was less then $670!
I also installed IPD sway bars front and rear.
I decided to run a coilover setup for the front as well. I was given a pair of TA Technix coilovers for free and decided to use them as a base. In their stock form they gave the worst ride I had ever experienced in any vehicle I had been in. They use terrible 6” springs that bind with anything over 1” of travel. The springs are ridiculously stiff and the shocks horribly underdamped. I stroked the shaft by hand 
and could move the shaft in and out with just my index finger…
Anyways, I decided to try out the struts with the stock inserts just to see how they would do. I plan on placing Koni adjustable inserts in the bodies in a short time.
I used a set of high travel (low stack height) 9” 350# springs with Kaplhenke upper mounts and Luxesteer™. It almost felt sacrilegious pairing these beautiful mounts with Technixs, but it’s only temporary.
To get decent ride height I had to use the helper spring from the Technix.
I will be going to a dual spring setup in the future, so the helper is only temporary.
That’s it for this installment, check in next week for brakes!
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Do88 Group Buy
Hey everyone, I started a DO88 group buy on the VS Facebook page.
Let me know if you would like me to add you to the list, even if you don't have a FB. Let me know what vehicle you have, what parts you would like, and the color of said parts if they have silicone pieces.
Once I get full interest I will submit everything and get pricing information. I will update this page as needed.
Refer to their website here for all their awesome stuff: http://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/hose-kits/volvo/index.html
can someone change the title to DO88 Group Buy? thanks
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Hi Everyone From Venice Italy
Hi everyone,
I'm new here, I'm from Venice neighbourhood Italy and I've recently bought a 1995 Volvo 850 2.0 GLT SW (103KW) and it has an aftermarket LPG system.
Before this I had a V70 MKII 2.4 (1025KW) and another youngtimer the Mercedes w124 200E and as first impressions I have to say I really miss the quality of those, the 850 plastics/dash/etc seem extremely cheap, engine is okay for a non-turbo though.
Cheers for now,
Gian Maria
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Playing Around In The Ice... Gropro Footage
Well this is the closest we have seen to snow this year... 
BTW... if anyone has my missing trim piece lmk... 426 color code
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$6K Later
Snagged this green R. M66, acatama, 101k. Was a trade in at the Volvo dealer. No problems, other than it's green
Title is clean, but it does have some minor chips on the front bumper, and it does need new tires. Should make a good beater.
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Birthday Kevin
Happy Birthday
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2 Day Spring Sale- Up To 26% Off @snabb
26 Days till Spring... up to 26% off!
Get a jump on Spring with our February 2 day Sale
16% off orders over $199 use coupon "Spring16"
26% off orders over $699 use coupon "Spring26"
Sale goes from Saturday 2.21 midnight to Monday 2.23 Midnight
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S80 Smoking Tire Video
Just came across this
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Pics Of Custom Intakes We've Done Recently @ Snabb
We do a quite a few custom orders and the other day someone from this forum was asking for a 3" 850 intake, instead of of regular 2.75" intake pipe. I said no problem we do that all the time. He was nice enough to mention that maybe I should post up some information so that people on the forums know. Well here's a couple pictures of some projects we've worked on recently to give you an idea that there are other options beside what you see on my website. Here's some pics to see what's up
3" 1998 S/V/C70 intake (this is a common request that I get from people who are upgrading to K24's or larger)
3" 850 intake pipe
3" intake for a P2. R airbox to TD04hl turbo.
Something I've been messing with recently: 1 piece 3" aluminum maf intake for P2R and T5's (K24)
Just email me kristian@snabb.us if you have any custom needs and please be patient something it takes day or two to get back to everyone. I can't check PM's very often so email is best for inquiries. Thanks for looking!
Kristian
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So I Bought This V70.
Hi there,
Names Ian. I come from VWs and BMWs mostly, and recently came across an extremely clean v70 XC. I wanted to find an Audi wagon that suited my needs, and after much searching this ended up on my radar instead. Always been a fan of volvo wagons.
So its a 98 XC. Im in the process of fitting Ferrari 348 wheels on it. Plan on lowering it a decent bit (please, spare the "but its awd" stuff... I like cars how I like cars.), adding a wrx lip up front and sorting out some better forward lighting and just drive the thing while my other very unreliable project cars are under the knife.
Just wanted to say hi to all you Volvo peeps and say that I'm beginning to understand your affection for these things.
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Sacramento: March 14, 2015: Tech Session, Lunch, Planning Mtg
Hello Everyone,
A message from Elizabeth Brown, Sac Volvo Club Planning Committee:
You are invited to join us for the 7th Annual EuroTech Tech Session, Lunch, and Planning Meeting on Saturday, March 14, 2015 starting at 10:00A.
EuroTech is a local shop specializing in all phases of Volvo diagnostics, service, and repairs. The owner, Peter Mausolff, has many years as a Volvo tech. The session will be a free flow format with Peter and his staff available to answer questions, take a look at your car, or even get it on a lift to check out that issue you have been avoiding. So, bring your immaculate, dirty, dinged, vintage, new, or barely alive Volvo!
There is no charge for this event.
After the Tech Session, we will have Lunch and the Planning Meeting at a nearby Chinese restaurant.
Meeting location:
Tech Session:
3259 Monier Circle, #100
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
916-631-4118
www.SacEuroTech.com
Lunch:
Lots of Luck Chinese Restaurant
3084 Sunrise Blvd # 12
Rancho Cordova, CA
(916) 858-1525
Google Map (will open in new tab/window):
Meeting Time:
Tech Session: 10:00A
Lunch / Planning Meeting to follow (~1P)
Cost:
Tech session: Free!
Lunch: TBD by menu choices, but you will need to cover your own lunch costs.
To RSVP, please see our Event Flyer page:
(An interactive map, driving direction gadgets, and weather gadgets can also be found on the Event Flyer page.)
Hope to see you there (rain or shine)!
Take care,
volvie!
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[Sacvcoa & Ggvcoa] 17Th Annual Davis Meet Weekend (2015)
Hi Everyone,
This year the Davis Meet Weekend will be on:
Saturday, April 11, 2015 - Sunday April 12, 2015
Saturday, April 11, 2015:
Autocross or Poker Run- TBD by ability to find/secure AutoX location
Have a (Nor-Cal) AutoX location idea? Please contact Elizabeth Brown, SacVCOA Webmaster
Sunday, April 12, 2015:
17th Annual Davis Car Show and Swap Meet
Central Park, Davis, CA
Entrance Gate is at 3rd and C Streets
Tickets go on sale March 1, 2015
Google Map (will open in new tab/window): http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=215264337018101684740.000484a1825493de7c5ea&ll=38.542862,-121.738386&spn=0.036117,0.084543&t=h&z=14
Google Map Restaurant Search (will open in new tab/window): https://www.google.com/maps/search/restaurants/@38.5517336,-121.7543936,15z/data=%213m1%214b1%214m3%212m2%213m1%211srestaurants?hl=en
Google Map Motel Search (will open in new tab/window): https://www.google.com/maps/search/motel/@38.554072,-121.738386,4150m/data=%213m2%211e3%214b1%214m3%212m2%213m1%211smotel?hl=en
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More details to come, so stay tuned!
If you would like to volunteer to help plan the event(s) and/or are available to help on the day of the event(s), please contact Elizabeth Brown, SacVCOA Webmaster
We look forward to seeing you this April!
Take care,
volvie!
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Amsterdam Members On Vs ?
I will be in Amsterdam on March 18&19th. Would like to connect with members on visiting the area. Where to go etc.
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The Red-Headed Stepchild Of Volvo - Boden's 1999 S80 T6 Project
So, after 2yrs of deliberation, procrastination, saving, indecisiveness and working, I finally have a car to call my own. It's a 1999 S80 T6, with a full service history and only 148,000km on the clock. Picked it up for a steal at $3500, and it's in pretty decent condition. First S80 I've ever seen in Tropical Green too. It does have a bit of paint damage on the plastic boot garnish, and the interior has some wear and tear, but nothing some TLC, a weekend and a box full of new parts won't fix. Fairly grunty for a barge too, won't set the world on fire but it's enough to give Skylines, S-chassis and turbo/V8 Falcons and Commodores (large domestic RWD sedans) a good scare. Will eventually get a trans rebuild and some stock R34 GT-R turbos or something to replace the tiny little TD03-08G stock turbos, should be decently responsive, and be able to net me my eventual ~400fwhp target. For now, custom catback, 18" wheels, grippy tyres, Koni FSD shocks and chassis bracing should make it more enjoyable to drive quickly, without ruining the smooth ride it has already too much.
And now, for pics, because we all know the golden rule, "pics or it didn't happen"...
When I brought it home a few nights ago:
Dat beige interior, full grandpa spec:
Original plush factory floormats with "S80" monogrammed into them:
Rear seat looks like it's never been sat in:
The less-nice parts:
More to come soon!
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Kaplhenke Rear Coils & Qa1 Shocks Install
Ok. So this install was nott too bad. Ive taken the rear suspension apart in these cars a few times so its good to know what your doing. As any type of modifications you'll always be prone to snag ups and issues. I ended up going with 350Lbs rear springs and Corvette Rear Qa1 adjustable shocks. As Aaron stated you will need to purchase the Qa1 5" tbar kit. This was also easy to do. I drilled the Tbar hold out on a vice with some lube in the matter of minuts. This is required due to the 3/8ths mounting bolts that Volvo uses.
So for taking the rear apart. On each side only two nuts and bolts need to be taken out. The sway bar and the bottom bolt that connects the spindle to the control arm . Obviously the Nivo needs to come out as well
My Springs came out relatively easy because I previously cut two coils off.
The old Nivo's. They started leaking after i cut my springs
Ive had drop bolts in my car for over 4 years and they where COMPLETELY SEIZED in the control arm. The bolts supplied by IPD rusted and basically locked the spacers in with them. Alot of PB and wrenching
Moving forward. Dont forget the take out the lower rubber spring seats. Mine where filled with dirt
The Qa1 Shock. I used the metal washer on the bottom, them the 2 stock Volvo mounting bushings with a spacer, lock, nut, and flat washer on top
Everything when in great. I Do Not recommend using drop bolts anymore. The are completely uneeded
New Hardwear store nuts and bolts
Soo, this is with the coils all the way down. I took it for a ride and it was terrible.(they also settled another 1/2 after driving) The car scrapped like a Mutha! And it was also bouncy.
I had to raise the treads about an inch and holy Crap. What a difference. No bounce. No scrapping and it handles so good. Mind you my front coils are not in yet, Im still waiting on the Camber plates. This is how it sits raised up an inch. I might go a litte higher after the fronts go in. Im extremely impressed with this set up so far. I might go with a stiffer spring in the rear thou. Not sure yet.
Dont mind the exhaust. Its going in this week for a custom set up lol
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Jroc's 97 850 T-5
I've had this thread up on Swedespeed for awhile but I feel its time that it has made its way over to this forum.
![15798080752_8a1896be6f_z.jpg]()
June of 2013 I bought this 1997 T-5 wagon with 146k miles on the clock for $3900. This is day one, just got it home.
The car had seen some neglect and badly needed some love.
![15772848966_92890139b4_z.jpg]()
The car immediately got a new timing belt as I had no clue when it was done last, as well as a new passenger side CV axle that was blown out and making noise. The car threw a CEL for a rear O2 sensor and I had that replaced as well right off the bat. PCV system was done a week or two after as well as a tune up with new Bougicord wires, Volvo plugs, Bosch C+R, air filter etc. The car had original cap, rotor and wires with stamped dates from 1996 that was a little unsettling, even though the car ran okay. This was a few months later when I went to a junkyard in Vancouver WA and got a 1997 850 R ECU to plug and play into my car for a bit extra pep.
![15798086202_2b16780b24_z.jpg]()
The entire suspension system got an overhaul, all strut components replaced with OE or better. Put Bilstein TC's on at the time and will upgrade to HD's at a later point. IPD sport springs, HD endlinks, Meyle HD control arms, and a new drivers side CV (I noticed the boot was split when I went in there to do suspension) were amongst the suspension replaced. The brakes also got a boost with Centric slotted rotors and Akebono ceramic pads.
![15772848006_6cd1c37fb8_z.jpg]()
I didn't really notice when I bought the car but the paint was pretty hammered on this car when I bought it. Clearcoat failure plagued the drivers door from a bad respray where the paintshop masked around the door handles and window seal rather than take them out. The hood also had that bad paint on it, although no clearcoat failure was there, it had a large dent right on the face of it and a lot of rock chips. The rest of the car had more than its fair share of scuffs and scratches as well. The car was taken down to the bare metal where bad paint was and all the dents on the car were pulled back out without body filler other than the one on the hood which could not be removed because of its position and severity.
![15798093872_d6d80bdff1_z.jpg]()
This respray was done right with all seals and trim removed. Since the door and window seals were nearly 20 years old and wouldn't come off the car without damage they were all replaced with new Volvo seals.
![15611666130_3a06e0646d_z.jpg]()
All put back together at a local car meet a few days after I got it back from the paint shop.
![15794638791_98fa95611e_z.jpg]()
I absolutely despised my turbo wheels and I found a Swedespeed member from southern California that was making the trip up to the Portland area in the next few weeks with a set of Volans that I went and got.
![15176567594_6b63ba063d_z.jpg]()
I also got rid of the "waterfall" grille that was on my car by getting an eggcrate grille and attaching my stock slash onto it.
![15794637121_de6ce59095_z.jpg]()
New grille and wheels on.
![15796515655_3514c6d276_z.jpg]()
On a trip up to Seattle to see a friend we found a whole M56H swap setup at the junkyard on half off weekend and had to get it.
![15772837786_753d063bb2_z.jpg]()
The new release bearing next to the old one. I'd say it needed a new one!
![15798082502_9bdf685be2_z.jpg]()
Rewiring the center console to accommodate the different style boot.
![15610687169_62cc891de7_z.jpg]()
Swap complete! Looks just like the factory. The swap included a new Sachs 850 R clutch kit, new slave cylinder, new rear main seal, resurfaced flywheel and new flywheel bolts. While we were in there, we installed IPD Track Spec swaybars, and poly subframe bushings as the subframe had to be removed to do the swap.
But, not all was good and well, the transmission grinded from first to second, and after some testing was diagnosed as a worn synchro. I then started looking for a new transmission for the car.
![15794632281_1bffffc230_z.jpg]()
Returning from a weekend in Eugene a truck cargo mat left on the freeway flew up and struck the front end of the car damaging the bumper and shattering some paint along it. Luckily the damage was confined to just the bumper.
![15797218011_f1e7c8ec80_z.jpg]()
So I found an R bumper. An olive green one of all things, but beat to all hell. Both pillars were broken, a large crack down the midsection of the bumper and a compound crack on the right side of the bumper.
![15837781958_b7e212873d_z.jpg]()
Repairs started with taping the front of the bumper back into a somewhat close shape of the original. I then cleaned the back section and sanded it until it was slightly rough and applied epoxy and fiberglass to the back section.
![16023262371_fab82973f1_z.jpg]()
The first pillar after the back was done with a few layers of fiberglass and epoxy.
![15839159079_115a63b407_z.jpg]()
Added some body filler to a gash on the side as well as to help fill the license plate holes.
![15839458007_975c487690_z.jpg]()
The bumper was all attached together but I didn't feel good about the pillars. There was a hard edge that when the bumper was flexed would recrack a little bit. I was worried that once I scraped the bumper it would crack again. So we dremeled out a valley where the crack was and filled it with epoxy layers and let it harden then sanded it flush with the rest of the bumper. No more cracking and there is a flexible "weld" in the bumper.
![15837953180_9754e593a3_z.jpg]()
After the repairs were completed filler primer was applied to the bumper.
![16025198525_c4ec3ea896_z.jpg]()
New foglights showed up, Depo brand, which I paired with some PIAA Extreme White bulbs. Nice and bright, very good light coverage.
![15839456907_a810cd9321_z.jpg]()
Got a wagon spoiler from a member on Swedespeed! There was a bunch of clearcoat failure that needed to be removed, so I wet sanded it down, and prepped it for paint.
![15405571913_0824337390_z.jpg]()
![15522230174_49d9272bb0_z.jpg]()
My lip showed up from Craig, aka Tomcat and myself and Josh+ clamped it down to the bumper and drilled some holes for mounting hardware.
![16143812502_e990fde3fc_z.jpg]()
Heres a somewhat blurry picture of one of the mounting points. I attached it via two small points on the edges of the bumper and four larger points along the main lip of it.
![16144571485_bac19b0233_z.jpg]()
R beetle? The filler primer wasn't sitting too good on one of the cracks in the middle of the bumper so I sent it off to my paint guy to finalize and shape along with the new spoiler
![15999432246_14f6e05c1a_z.jpg]()
The car was having boost issues and would rarely hit full boost. Myself and a few friends went in and replaced the CBV with a new IPD HD unit as well as a new IPD HD TCV.
![15837952630_32dfd58448_z.jpg]()
Found a vacuum leak! Somehow the intake manifold gasket got pinched when reinstalling the manifold when doing the PCV job. It blew out on cylinder one and 5 and caused a big vacuum leak and a horrible whining sound. Put a new gasket on and much better vacuum and performance.
![16025359145_5a8da2cb6f_z.jpg]()
Found a set of V70 upper taillights at the junkyard and then used a 3M headlight restoration kit on them to remove all the scuffs on them.
![16097967159_255f70a32b_z.jpg]()
R bumper and spoiler on!
![15661678714_6278db8ff4_z.jpg]()
I also added clear turn signals to the car to further remove amber from the car.
![16117173079_ab24bb2450_z.jpg]()
New M56H! 150k miles and has a warranty. Hopefully it's better than the last one!
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Picture of the rear end with the new v70 tails and wagon spoiler.
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XXX Rootbeer Prep! Josh+ with the buff+ polish.
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Sealant, three layers on the hood and roof, two on the rest of the car.
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All shiny and ready for the meet!
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Rolling up to Issaquah for the weekend with some friends, Dongsquad.
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Shot Swedish Metal took of the car.
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Kayne Richardson's 245, with my car on the right and Andrew Abson's S60R bringing up the rear on the way home.
Well, that's all so far, will update as things move along on the car!
June of 2013 I bought this 1997 T-5 wagon with 146k miles on the clock for $3900. This is day one, just got it home.
The car had seen some neglect and badly needed some love.
The car immediately got a new timing belt as I had no clue when it was done last, as well as a new passenger side CV axle that was blown out and making noise. The car threw a CEL for a rear O2 sensor and I had that replaced as well right off the bat. PCV system was done a week or two after as well as a tune up with new Bougicord wires, Volvo plugs, Bosch C+R, air filter etc. The car had original cap, rotor and wires with stamped dates from 1996 that was a little unsettling, even though the car ran okay. This was a few months later when I went to a junkyard in Vancouver WA and got a 1997 850 R ECU to plug and play into my car for a bit extra pep.
The entire suspension system got an overhaul, all strut components replaced with OE or better. Put Bilstein TC's on at the time and will upgrade to HD's at a later point. IPD sport springs, HD endlinks, Meyle HD control arms, and a new drivers side CV (I noticed the boot was split when I went in there to do suspension) were amongst the suspension replaced. The brakes also got a boost with Centric slotted rotors and Akebono ceramic pads.
I didn't really notice when I bought the car but the paint was pretty hammered on this car when I bought it. Clearcoat failure plagued the drivers door from a bad respray where the paintshop masked around the door handles and window seal rather than take them out. The hood also had that bad paint on it, although no clearcoat failure was there, it had a large dent right on the face of it and a lot of rock chips. The rest of the car had more than its fair share of scuffs and scratches as well. The car was taken down to the bare metal where bad paint was and all the dents on the car were pulled back out without body filler other than the one on the hood which could not be removed because of its position and severity.
This respray was done right with all seals and trim removed. Since the door and window seals were nearly 20 years old and wouldn't come off the car without damage they were all replaced with new Volvo seals.
All put back together at a local car meet a few days after I got it back from the paint shop.
I absolutely despised my turbo wheels and I found a Swedespeed member from southern California that was making the trip up to the Portland area in the next few weeks with a set of Volans that I went and got.
I also got rid of the "waterfall" grille that was on my car by getting an eggcrate grille and attaching my stock slash onto it.
New grille and wheels on.
On a trip up to Seattle to see a friend we found a whole M56H swap setup at the junkyard on half off weekend and had to get it.
The new release bearing next to the old one. I'd say it needed a new one!
Rewiring the center console to accommodate the different style boot.
Swap complete! Looks just like the factory. The swap included a new Sachs 850 R clutch kit, new slave cylinder, new rear main seal, resurfaced flywheel and new flywheel bolts. While we were in there, we installed IPD Track Spec swaybars, and poly subframe bushings as the subframe had to be removed to do the swap.
But, not all was good and well, the transmission grinded from first to second, and after some testing was diagnosed as a worn synchro. I then started looking for a new transmission for the car.
Returning from a weekend in Eugene a truck cargo mat left on the freeway flew up and struck the front end of the car damaging the bumper and shattering some paint along it. Luckily the damage was confined to just the bumper.
So I found an R bumper. An olive green one of all things, but beat to all hell. Both pillars were broken, a large crack down the midsection of the bumper and a compound crack on the right side of the bumper.
Repairs started with taping the front of the bumper back into a somewhat close shape of the original. I then cleaned the back section and sanded it until it was slightly rough and applied epoxy and fiberglass to the back section.
The first pillar after the back was done with a few layers of fiberglass and epoxy.
Added some body filler to a gash on the side as well as to help fill the license plate holes.
The bumper was all attached together but I didn't feel good about the pillars. There was a hard edge that when the bumper was flexed would recrack a little bit. I was worried that once I scraped the bumper it would crack again. So we dremeled out a valley where the crack was and filled it with epoxy layers and let it harden then sanded it flush with the rest of the bumper. No more cracking and there is a flexible "weld" in the bumper.
After the repairs were completed filler primer was applied to the bumper.
New foglights showed up, Depo brand, which I paired with some PIAA Extreme White bulbs. Nice and bright, very good light coverage.
Got a wagon spoiler from a member on Swedespeed! There was a bunch of clearcoat failure that needed to be removed, so I wet sanded it down, and prepped it for paint.
My lip showed up from Craig, aka Tomcat and myself and Josh+ clamped it down to the bumper and drilled some holes for mounting hardware.
Heres a somewhat blurry picture of one of the mounting points. I attached it via two small points on the edges of the bumper and four larger points along the main lip of it.
R beetle? The filler primer wasn't sitting too good on one of the cracks in the middle of the bumper so I sent it off to my paint guy to finalize and shape along with the new spoiler
The car was having boost issues and would rarely hit full boost. Myself and a few friends went in and replaced the CBV with a new IPD HD unit as well as a new IPD HD TCV.
Found a vacuum leak! Somehow the intake manifold gasket got pinched when reinstalling the manifold when doing the PCV job. It blew out on cylinder one and 5 and caused a big vacuum leak and a horrible whining sound. Put a new gasket on and much better vacuum and performance.
Found a set of V70 upper taillights at the junkyard and then used a 3M headlight restoration kit on them to remove all the scuffs on them.
R bumper and spoiler on!
I also added clear turn signals to the car to further remove amber from the car.
New M56H! 150k miles and has a warranty. Hopefully it's better than the last one!
Picture of the rear end with the new v70 tails and wagon spoiler.
XXX Rootbeer Prep! Josh+ with the buff+ polish.
Sealant, three layers on the hood and roof, two on the rest of the car.
All shiny and ready for the meet!
Rolling up to Issaquah for the weekend with some friends, Dongsquad.
Shot Swedish Metal took of the car.
Kayne Richardson's 245, with my car on the right and Andrew Abson's S60R bringing up the rear on the way home.
Well, that's all so far, will update as things move along on the car!
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Autocross Session
So it's almost time for autocross session and I've been looking forward to this since I bought my car.., some of the suspension upgrade I've done so far have been h and r spring with bIlsteins, racing end links, and evolved swaybars also m56h and full bolts one with a k24 turbo and ard billet wheel. So my question is how many people have done autocross and how have you guys done on p80 cars .. My friends have e36 m3 (stock) and I was wonding how my car would stack up against his
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